Why Hvar Island Became My Favorite Croatian Paradise: A Complete Travel Guide

When I first stepped off the ferry onto Hvar Island, I understood immediately why celebrities flock here for their vacations. This Croatian gem in the Adriatic Sea isn’t just another Mediterranean destination—it’s where ancient history meets vibrant nightlife, where lavender fields cascade down hillsides to meet crystal-clear waters. With its dramatic peak of Sveti Nikola towering at 628 meters and a coastline that seamlessly blends pebbly coves with hidden sandy beaches, Hvar offered me everything I was searching for: authentic Croatian culture, stunning natural beauty, and yes, some of the best parties in the Mediterranean.

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Getting to Hvar Island: My Journey and What I Learned

The Reality of Summer Travel Let me be honest—getting to Hvar during peak season tested my patience, but it was absolutely worth it. The Croatian highways transform into parking lots on summer Saturdays due to accommodation changeovers. After sitting in traffic for what felt like hours, I learned to plan my trips on weekdays instead.

Pro Tip for 2025: While the promised e-vignette system didn’t launch in 2024 as expected, invest in an ENC device if you’re driving. I watched cars zoom past in dedicated lanes while I sat in kilometer-long queues at toll booths. Those devices cost around €10 and will save you hours of frustration.

Ferry Routes That Actually Work Here’s what nobody tells you about the ferries: your choice between Split and Drvenik completely changes your Hvar experience.

• Split to Stari Grad: 2-hour journey, 7 daily departures, lands you on the cultural side of the island
• Drvenik to Sućuraj: 30-minute journey, 11 daily departures, perfect if you’re staying on the eastern part

I chose the Split route and loved watching the islands appear on the horizon during that peaceful two-hour crossing. Book through Jadrolinija’s website—don’t risk showing up without a reservation in summer.

By bus or train

If you arrive by bus or train. You can take a ferry or catamaran to Hvar from Split. For more information visit the official website of Hvar Island or visit-hvar.

Where to Stay: Finding Your Perfect Hvar Base

After researching every corner of this island, here’s my honest breakdown of each area:

Hvar Town: The Instagram-worthy choice where you’ll pay premium prices for that postcard-perfect harbor view. Choose this if you want to stumble home from bars rather than worry about transportation.

Stari Grad: My surprise favorite. This UNESCO World Heritage site gave me authentic Croatian vibes without the tourist markup. Plus, you’re steps away from the ferry terminal.

Jelsa & Vrboska: Perfect for families or anyone seeking that “real Croatia” experience.

Milna (where I stayed): This was my sweet spot—close enough to Hvar Town for day trips, quiet enough to actually sleep, and surrounded by multiple beaches and restaurants. The local bakery became my morning ritual, and I could walk to three different coves depending on my mood.

Booking Reality Check: July and August accommodations disappear faster than you’d expect. I booked in March for July and still had limited options. Use Booking.com or Plannin, but don’t wait.

Booking Reality Check: July and August accommodations disappear faster than you’d expect. I booked in March for July and still had limited options. Use Plannin or Booking.com, but don’t wait.

What are the best things to do in Hvar island?

Hvar town

At the heart of Hvar Island lies Hvar Town, the largest settlement and its number one attraction. The waterfront promenade is lined with palm trees and 7th-century city walls. Its medieval atmosphere is heightened by white stone houses. Hvar is a somewhat pricey destination, given its popularity.

Aside from being the most beautiful place on the island, Hvar Town is also the busiest, offering a vibrant nightlife with numerous bars and clubs. It’s the epicenter of the island’s nocturnal activities, with popular spots like Hula Hula and the Carpe Diem Beach accessible by water taxi, even during the day. For those seeking lively and energetic vacations, the capital is a prime choice. However, if tranquility is preferred, quieter villages are available for accommodation, ensuring proximity to Hvar’s attractions.

Spanjola Fortress

Perched on a hill in Hvar Town is the Spanjola Fortress, offering a magnificent panoramic view of Hvar and the adjacent islands. Built in the 16th century, the fortress expanded during French and Austrian rule, gaining its present form with various modifications. The fortress hosts valuable medieval and even older artifacts for display, making it a must-visit. Admission for adults is €10 (as of 2024).

Cathedral of St. Stephen

The Cathedral of St. Stephen (Sv. Stjepan) stands on the main square of Hvar Town. Its construction spanned the 16th and 17th centuries, with the interior completed in the 18th century. The cathedral exhibits a fusion of Renaissance and Baroque styles, boasting eleven Baroque altars, several crafted by Venetian artists. Its bell tower dates back to the 17th century.

Stari Grad

Stari Grad, located in the northern part of the island, is Hvar’s oldest settlement, one of Europe’s oldest towns, and Croatia’s. It shares the bustle of Hvar Town but with less crowding. Ferries arriving from Split dock here. With a history spanning 2500 years, Stari Grad boasts a legacy dating back to its Greek settlers in 384 BC. Much of the ancient Greek settlement remains unexplored, with a few remnants visible, including 11-meter-high Greek walls. Despite this, several ancient 500-year-old churches still stand. Stari Grad is surrounded by vineyards, olive groves, and oak forests.

Stari Grad’s main attraction is the Trvdalj, a mesmerizing palace built in 1520. It features a garden with an over hundred-year-old magnolia tree and a fishpond filled with seawater. Nearby stands the 16th-century Church of St. Rocco and the Dominican Monastery founded in 1482.

Jelsa

Jelsa, situated in the heart of Hvar and bordered by two of the island’s tallest mountains and forests, is home to around 3600 residents. It has a rich tradition in tourism, with the first hotel, Hotel Jardan, opening in 1911. While architectural wonders may not be the focus here, the town is less crowded. It features numerous palm trees, Mediterranean trees, and plants. Jelsa offers a well-equipped environment for sports and other leisure activities. Jelsa also hosts a sandy beach.

Milna

Several smaller beaches are located next to each other near Milna, where sunbeds can be rented. Some are along the hiking trail between Hvar and Milna, so the more secluded coves are not easily accessible.

Plaza dubovica

Around a 20-minute drive from Hvar, followed by an equally long walk, or a boat ride, lies the slightly secluded Dubovica Beach with its picturesque pebble shore and crystal-clear waters. It’s advisable to wear sturdy shoes due to the steep rocky slope. As access is only by car or by boat, this small and splendid beach is less crowded compared to others. A restaurant and bar are located along the beach. To get there, drive about 10 km from Hvar, and after Zaraca, you’ll find the Dubovica sign about 1-2 km away, where parking is available. Arriving early is recommended, as the roadside parking spaces (which are not fully developed) fill up quickly.

Pakleni islands

Red rocks

If you set sail from Hvar towards St. Nedjelja, after passing through the coves of Dubovica and Pišćena, you’ll encounter Crvene stijene (Red Rocks). This natural wonder consists of vertically fragmented reddish cliffs that plunge dramatically into the sea. The interplay of sea and rain over time has carved impressive layers into the limestone, resulting in a breathtaking natural masterpiece.

Tip: book a Boat tour to visit Red Rocks and Pakleni Islands where you get a chance to swim in the two different bays.

Blue Cave near Vis

A visit to the Blue Cave (Modra Špilja) on the island of Biševo, near Vis Island, promises an unforgettable memory. The remarkable play of sunlight reflecting off the white seabed creates a mesmerizing blue light that illuminates the cave both above and below the water’s surface. Objects submerged in the water even take on a silver glow. Biševo Island, with its enchanting shores, vineyards, and pine-scented forests, offers a true paradise for relaxation.

Tip: Visit the island of Vis and the Blue Cave by speedboat tour.

Scenic Mountain Drives and Hiking Sveti Nikola, Hvar

For a truly breathtaking experience, take a drive through the mountains to uncover spectacular vistas, and charming villages, and hike up to Sveti Nikola. You can do it with your own car or by renting a scooter or Quad or even there are bicycle tours. They are the perfect way to discover the beauty of the island from a different perspective.

Final Thoughts: Why Hvar Stole My Heart

Hvar isn’t just another pretty Mediterranean island—it’s a place where every sunset feels personal, where ancient stones tell stories if you know how to listen, and where the simple act of sharing rakija with strangers becomes a cherished memory.

Yes, it’s expensive. Yes, it gets crowded. But there’s something magical about watching the sunrise from Spanjola Fortress with the islands stretching endlessly before you, or discovering a hidden cove where the water is so clear you can count pebbles at 10 feet deep.

My advice? Come with an open heart and a flexible itinerary. The best parts of Hvar can’t be planned—they happen when you take that unmarked path, accept that dinner invitation from locals, or decide to stay for one more drink as the stars reflect in the harbor.

Hvar didn’t just meet my expectations; it rewrote them entirely. And now, every Mediterranean sunset I see will be measured against those magical evenings in this Croatian paradise.

Practical parting wisdom: Bring reef-safe sunscreen (the marine life will thank you), pack comfortable walking shoes for those stone streets, and always carry cash—many local gems still don’t accept cards.

I hope you enjoy visiting Hvar!

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